London

Well, we're home, but I wanted to finish off the blog with our hijinx in London.  We left Sarajevo at around 3 on Sunday and arrived at approx. 4:30 in London - Gatwick airport.  We went straight to our hotel - very close to the airport  - to check-in & put our stuff down.  It was not quite as cold as in Sarajevo, so we could shed a few layers.  Then we headed back to the airport to catch the train into London - Victoria Station.  We had no idea of a plan, so we got a map, asked around, then started walking toward Buckingham Palace.  Along the way we stopped at Kings Arms - a small, hopefully typical and not too "touristy" pub for dinner.  Arthur partook (is that a word?) of the fish and chips while I had a meat & onion pie and a beer!  Then we started back on our trek.  Once we hit Buckingham Palace,  we took a right, walked along St. James Park,  and headed toward the River Thames.  We could see the London Eye from quite a few blocks away.  Then we reached Westminster Abbey, and of course, Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament!  too cool!  Then we walked across the bridge to the Aquarium and the London Eye.  We continued our walk along the Queen's Jubilee Walk all the away to Shakespeare's Globe Theater.  We then walked back across the river along the Millennium Foot Bridge from where we had a great view of London Bridge!  We continued across the river and ran right into St. Paul's Cathedral.  The girls really wanted to take a double decker bus, so from St. Paul's we hopped a bus, ran upstairs and got the front row seats!  The girls loved it!  We rode for a few blocks and got off on Fleet Street just near the Courts of Justice.  From there we walked a few blocks, then caught one of he big black cabs to take us back to the front of Buckingham Palace.  Then we finished our walk, thanks to Arthur's short cut, back to Victoria Station to catch the train back to Gatwick (about a half hour ride), then taxi back to the hotel with 2 exhausted girls!!  Ott and I figured we can write a book called London in Four Hours! 

How's that for a layover??

Next morning headed back to airport for our 11:40 flight home! The flight home seemed

incredibly long compared to the flight there - I guess 8 hours in the middle of the day in one

seat will do that to ya! The kids were great and didn't seem too bothered. Jodi was the perfect

reception for us at the airport! The girls were excited to get home and see what Santa left them

under our tree, and in fact began opening presents before the luggage was all inside!

So Arthur, Emma and I spent our New Years Eve sleeping the night away while Dead-on-her-

feet Skylar partied the night away at Alicia's!

It's New Year's Day and we have spent it eating American food (I use that term loosely)

- McDonald's and pizza - but we have promised ourselves to start eating healthier - a good

habit we're trying to pick up from Jen and Heath.

Now that our trip's over and we're home, I can honestly say we had an amazing trip - 

a trip of a lifetime! As many of you know, we debated going on this trip for a long time 

and considered many issues - well, we absolutely do not regret for one moment our decision to go!   

Even though the girls are indeed a little young, we're sure they'll retain some memory of it. And 

not just the "seeing of things", but the getting to know some of the people, and sort of "living" there for two 

weeks - which we were able to do - verses just "staying" there was an experience that we and 

the girls, will carry for a long time. And getting to see my sister, and Heath, and

adorable Freddy after so long was indescribable and really important for our families! And finally,

this trip has truly given new meaning, for me personally, to the saying "peace on earth."

So hopefully, you've enjoyed the blog - I imagine if you didn't you wouldn't even be reading

this far into it - or maybe, if you are still reading, it just means it hasn't bored you to tears.  

I apologize for all of the typos (esp. to you, Edwina) - I was not proofing at all - and maybe the 

guffaws for all my errors helped you stay awake enough to keep reading.

Much Love to you all!!

and...

Peace on Earth

m

Last Day!

It's our last day and the packing has begun!

We spent the day doing col stuff - we started by going to the sarajevo War Tunnel Museum out near the Butmir Base and airport.  It was a solemn and awe-inspiring, not to mention humbling experience.  The Tunnel Museum is exactly what it says - a museum to show the remains of the tunnel that was built by the citizens of Sarajevo.  This tunnel was 1.6 meters high, 1 meter wide, and 800 meters long.  It was THE only "safe" route in and out of Sarajevo for almost 4 years!  Any food, weapons, various supplies, medical supplies, etc -  came into the city through that tunnel.  That was it!  An oil pipeline (maybe 6 inches in diameter) was added later.  There were also 2 small tracks to be able to push a small  'rail car' - if you can call it that to push the supplies, in addition to the backs of the people traveling through each day.  If you're interested in reading more here is an article:  http://www.bosnia.org.uk/bosrep/juloct96/adriatic.cfm

And the most humbling part is that all this was going on just 15 years ago!!!!!  These people were regular "civilized" people - people like us -  who were completely, essentially, held captive and terrorized for 4 years!!  And it was all happening while I/we was/were working, living our lives, I mean 15 years ago!!  Anyway, it's been very moving and thought-provoking for me and Arthur,  too.

On the lighter topic, had a wonderful  Bosnian lunch then headed to a BEAUTIFUL park called Vrelo Bosna (it means The Springs of the River Bosna).  It is the site of the source for the river Bosna.  It is full of small crystal clear ponds with running stream.  Up the sides of the ponds and streams is beautful green moss, as the water temp. ranges from 26*C to 58*C - very warm compared to outside temp.  In between all the streams and ponds were beautiful paths and bridges.  The other family that accompanied us brought a cool old wooden sled, so the kids had a blast pulling each other around and getting the parents to pull them!  the place was truly breath-taking!  And I can't begin to imagine the summer time!!

Then one last trip to Old Town to pick up final souvenirs, etc. Arthur had a leather maker make him a custom brief case that turned out beautiful!!   Metal working is another craft with some amazing artists, so we stopped at the most respected one's shop (Jen and Heath had the skinny on the best rug maker, best leather worker, and the best metal shop).  It was so interesting and his works are amazing!

We leave tomorrow at 3:00, arrive London at 4:30 - then we'll "hit the town" for some sort of fun, then we fly out of London Monday morning at 11:40 and will be home in Orlando by 4:30, if all goes as planned.  

Obviously, leaving Heath, my sister and Freddy weighs heavy on my heart.  We've had such a nice visit!  But hopefully, they'll be home - as in the USA - by this summer.  

 Additionally, leaving Sarajevo feels a little sad, too.  This place has really gotten into my heart.  I know most of you wondered why in the world we would visit a "war torn" country where who knows what could happen, but honestly, in hindsight, I wouldn't have wanted to go any place else. the only possible regret is that we didn't come in the summer - Jen says it is so green  and perfect temps in summer - winters, esp. where there is snow can look dreary sometimes.  But, Ott and I have learned sooo much, and the girls, wow, what an experience!  It has just been so much more than I expected.  And the recent history of the country and the city and the people really has made an impact on me - the empathy for other humans it evokes, at least for me, and I hope, the girls, is indescribable. 

See you all soon!

Love to you all

& Peace on Earth!!

M

Hi everyone!

Only two more entries you have to read!

Today we tried to get an early start, didn't work as smoothly as planned, but we were out of the house by 10:00 - that's something!  Just the bundling up takes ten minutes!!  The weather seemed a little warmer and we actually saw blue sky, before noon that is.  We started with the museum at the Latin Bridge, that I spoke of yesterday, where WWI started by the shooting of the archduke and his wife.  The museum was very small, but very thorough and had English translations, so that was nice.

Then we stopped for the requiste cappuccino at a Turkish cafe.  The kids, all three of them, got hyped up on sugar and cappuccino - which Freddy loves - the benefit of being raised internationally!

Next we headed to the National Museum, a 4 building complex with a  beautiful, small botanical garden in the middle.  We saw lots of archelogical items - so many of which were destroyed during the 1992 war - the building was badly damaged by artillery, etc.  But, it is up and running now and has been for a few years - a sign of the spirit of Sarajevans.  There was also the natural history building that had species of all types in dioramas.  Very interesting for the kids.

Then lunch in Bascarsija, to the "best cevapi" in town.  A little more wandering, then off to see Freddy's school.  It's a Waldorf school run by a Bosnian women - lots of Bosnian children attend, as well as American, German, and other kids from the international community.  The girls, esp. Emma, really wanted to see where Freddy spends some of his time.  It was a really neat/cute school - the playground/yard was a kids' paradise!!

Then home to the "yellow house" as Freddy calls it for yummy pasta dinner!

Tomorrow is our last  full day, and I just can't even believe it has flown by so fast!!  We have had such a great time - so much exceeding my expectations!!  Jen and I only had one tense day and of course that was centered around the meal Christmas day!!  Arthur has really embraced the whole experience, and of course, Freddy is a doll!

love you all

peace

M

*The first picture is of one of the streets in "Old Town"

*The next one is of us at Christmas Dinner - Ott was taking the photo, so he's not in it, but it's Heath holding Freddy, me, Jasenka, Emma, Dzevad, Jen, Skylar, Snjezana, Jansenko,  & Andrea.

*Next is the Latin Bridge where the Archduke Franz Fernidad and his wife Sofia were killed in 1914 to start the 1st World War. (We went to that museum today and I'll write about it later tonight)

*Remanence of the recent war  - a bombed out building that has yet to be rebuilt.

*Some of the architecture of Sarajevo.

 

Finally, some pictures!!

Ciao!

Even though "ciao" is Italian, it is often used here as a casual greeting.

Let's see, what did we do yesterday??

Arthur, Emma, Skylar, & I walked to the Bosinak Institute.  The architecture is cool, one part was an old Turkish public bath (hamam) built from 1537 - 39!    It was built from stone and has a domes as roofs - it had a men's and women's sides.  The second part is a very sleek modern building that houses a library and a gallery.    We tried to visit the gallery but they only give tours on Saturdays, so we might try again on Sat.   The girls then went to the bank, passports in hand, and exchanged their money.  It was so cute and they were so excited.  I think Arthur was able to snap one photo (no flash of course) before he was told to put the camera away.  What tourists we are!! 

We then met Jen and Freddy for yet another yummy lunch - our "chickentarian" Emma, has had a relatively easy time finding chicken to eat.  Beef and veal are also readily available, but due to fact it's a Muslim country, pork, needless to say, is pretty much not existent except at the PX out at Butmir.  The sausages here are beef and Arthur has found a new favorite food, ceveapi: sausages served on a thicker, yet lighter pita bread(somun), and you can have onions, cheese, etc on it.   Potatoes seem to be some what of a staple here, mashed, fried, etc.  Overall food is very reasonably priced.  Ott and I ate dinner tonight at a small little cafe, and it was only 11km (approx. $8.00).   

After lunch we walked again through Bascarsija (this word has 3 accents; one over the each s and one over the c - they use the Latin and the Cyrillic alphabets here).  Some of the artisans are amazing.  We spent a while in a Bosnian rug shop.   The rugs (kilims) were all made on hand looms by women in the area.  There were some older rugs made years ago in some of the villages with different patterns signifying different villages or areas of the city.   So needless to say we all bought something, including the girls.

After the afternoon of wandering, we walked home.  I know I have mentioned the driving here - it is crazy.  But I may not have said that to get your license you must be 18 and pass a course where you drive 30 hours with an instructor!!  So although the drivers are crazy, they are skilled.  But that aside, everyone walks here!!  I mean the roads can be snow covered/slush covered,  below freezing, and the hills can be very steep, yet everyone still walks!  Heath walks to and from work every day.  To us at home, what might seem like a long way, is nothing here!

And, many of the younger women walk in high heeled boots!!  It's just so funny!  As most of you may know - I don't exercise - but my heart rate as been well into the 90s a good part of each day due to all the walking, and then being greeted by 3 flights of stairs when we arrive home at Jen's!!

Today (12/27) we slept in then went to the American Embassy  to meet for lunch.  It was neat.  We had to pass through security 1st, although not to the extent most people would due to Heath being our escort.  Most visitors, children included, must pass through metal detectors, bags searched, possible pat downs (not too often), etc.  We pretty much only had to show our (me and Ott) our passports and that was it.  We went into the unclassified building first.  Some really neat wood work and this gorgeous curved door.  This is where we at lunch - in the "cafeteria" - a very small one with about 6 long, table clothed tables in the dining area. Also, located in this building are various departments - medical, travel, a small gym, etc.  Then we headed to the classified building up to Heath's office.  He showed us a couple of cool security things along the way and what the marines do that are in the control-room looking things around the building.     In his side of the classified building are the security and legal departments.  The other side is the diplomatic - ambassador - and political departments. Anyway, overall neat mini-tour.    

The American Embassy inherited the pre-existing buildings from some former communist agency.  Before the 1992 war there was no embassy because Bosnia was not a country.  During the war, the State dept worked out of the only Holiday in town - which was also the hotel where most of the journalist covering the war stayed.  We (the Americans) lease the land and building for $1 a year!  There is a new American embassy being built - we've seen the land that's fenced off and cleared.  Not sure the ETA for completion.

After our tour there we headed over to the corner and bridge (The Latin Bridge which crosses the Miljacka River)) where  Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife, Sofia,  of the Austro-Hungarian Empire were shot to start WWI.    It was an interesting place to stand, so full of  - well I can't describe it.  There is a small museum there, but we were 10 minutes late!!  We'll try again tomorrow!

 Then Jen drove (yes drove) us around the city.  We went up on some of the hills around the edge of the city and the sights were beautiful, what we could see.  The snow clouds, pollution and the fact it was getting dark (well it was 3:30 already!!) made seeing more difficult, but still pretty cool.  Then she drove us over the bridge that is memorialized with a small monument marking the sight of the 1st two people killed in the 1992 war on April 6, 1992.  They were just 2 regular people walking wherever they were walking and never made it home.  I guess because it is so, so recent, it is really so, so real to Ott and me.  It is difficult to comprehend this peaceful, multi-ethic regular city was continuously bombed and shot at by snipers for 4 years while we were just living our regular lives.  

Anyway, then she drove us by a huge brewery.  It is currently open still as a brewery and a lovely restaurant.  Well, during the war, because it was Serbian owed, it received very little damage - it was not shelled at all, and this particular brewery became the spot where very large numbers of Sarajevo citizens would come for their water.  You can see pictures of people lined up down the block, around the corner waiting for water with their milk jugs, etc.  And this went on for 4 years!!  We saw a couple of other cool sites, then Jen dropped Ott and I off down town.  

Arthur and I wandered a bit.  We really wanted a custom, hand-made brief case so we wandered the leather workers shops.  It was a neat experience, especially with the language barrier!  On our way to dinner, in this part of town especially we were approached by some Roma/gypsy women begging for money.  We both said no and kept walking.  Well, apparently my no was not forceful enough, because I was then surrounded by 2 young women and a very short older women  carrying a wrapped up "baby"  - it was fake - jen told me to be aware of this as they think it increases sympathy (I know, I know, some of you may be asking "What's Ott doing at this point?" - I'll get to that). Anyway, one young woman is behind me, one in front of me, and the older women is walking with me, yet she has grabbed my left hand, and her other hand, sneaky as she was, was under the blanket draping from the fake baby and it was headed straight for my bag, which was slung over my one shoulder and across my body like it should be (except not under my coat - thanks Jen - but that's another story!)  Well, when I realized what was happening I reached for my bag, lefted the blanket to see if she had anything in her hand, and more forcefully said"NO!"and walked over to where Ott was, oh yea, laughing!! Now, don't be alarmed, the Roma 

only hang out in this one area. And I'm fine, by the way. Now, Arthur may have another version, the

one from 10 feet away not protecting his wife, but let his version fool you when he tells it to you

later (which he is sure to do)!

We're all home now, ready for bed and a full day tomorrow!

Love and Peace to you all!

M